Since 2016, CIDP has embarked on an innovation mission within the cosmetic industry with the set up of its Biophysics Department. Instead of waiting for cosmetic companies to come up with study designs, CIDP is actively developing and proposing various study protocols to answer to the cosmetic industry’s quest for new cosmetic claims such as Anti-Pollution, Blue Light Protection or Skin Microbiota Friendly.
Following various scientific evidences of the detrimental impact of air pollution on the skin, many cosmetic companies have developed products with the anti-pollution claim.
Anti-pollution beauty products have gained much importance on the Asian and US market and is a considered as a mainstream in these regions. In 2016, over 38% of new product launched in the Asia pacific market carries the anti-pollution claims. The anti-pollution claim has also recently been on the rise in the European market. However, one of the main critics for anti-pollution cosmetic product is that there is no recognized standardized method in place to objectively substantiate the anti-pollution efficacy of these cosmetic products on human skin.
To address this challenge the Controlled Pollution Exposure System (CPES) was engineered in house. The CPES is a device which enables controlled exposure of the skin to specific pollutants. The CPES can be used to expose donor skin explants or in-vivo skin to pollutants such as:
- ambient dust,
- diesel particles or
- any other gaseous or particulate pollutants.
Hence today CIDP can propose both indoor (controlled condition within the CPES) and outdoor studies to substantiate claims such as:
- Protection and repair of pollution induced skin deterioration
- Shield or barrier effect
- Cleansing effect
For centuries, the scientific community believed that Ultra Violet (UV) light was the main component of the solar radiation that was responsible for cutaneous pigmentation and photo-aging. However, recent findings have shown that Blue Light, or High Energy Visible (HEV) Light do have significant pigmenting and skin aging effect. Blue Light corresponds to the segment of the solar radiation between 400nm and 500nm and is well known for its detrimental impact on the eye retina leading to macular degeneration. However, the effect of Blue Light on the skin is more and more studied due to the opportunity that it offers to the cosmetic industry.
Blue Light occurs both naturally, by solar irradiation and artificially, through the various electronic devices containing LED such as smartphones, tablets, computers, tv screens, etc... Even though the amount of Blue Light emitted from these electronic devices are negligible as compared to the solar radiated Blue Light, our 24/7 connected lifestyles may increase the possibility of artificial light affecting the skin.
CIDP has developed various calibrated blue light sources in the region of 412-462nm which can be used in protocols to substantiate the following claims such as:
- Anti-pigmenting and depigmenting efficacy against blue light induced skin pigmentation
- Protective and repairing efficacy against blue light induced oxidative stress
It is now well established within the scientific communities that a well-balanced microbiota is essential for a healthy and beautiful skin. Just like the human gut, the skin contains a variety of microbial communities comprising of bacteria, fungi, yeast and viruses. Some of these are considered beneficial while others are considered harmful to the skin. However, it is important to have a good biodiversity and an evenness in the microbe’s distribution to maintain a healthy skin.
Cosmetics Products can help to maintain the skin healthy by:
- Maintaining a healthy well-balanced microbiome
- Having a Probiotic effect: improves the microbiota by the addition of living “good” bacteria or extracts from living bacteria
- Having a Prebiotic effect: actives which will rebalance the microbiota
Many cosmetic brands have understood the opportunities that exist due to the connection between a healthy, beautiful skin and a balanced microbiome. Various cosmetic products have already been commercialised.
As an Innovative CRO, CIDP is also following this trend by providing innovative solution to substantiate these claims. We are indeed providing study protocols that allow evaluation of skin microbiome by 16S-rRNA Gene Sequencing, whereby bacteria can be identified to their specific genes.